Sunday, 2 October 2016

My Version of Roland Mouret Afyon dress


This was not the best fabric for sewing this dress, but I love the color, so I gave it a try.

To work with this fabric was not easy, I even got headache. But I love the result, and I am a pink lover (^.^)

I decided to sew the skirt differently because I already have the pattern. (ROLAND MOURET Aspen Pencil Skirt back)

I got into trouble after having the whole dress sew. I started to see small details that make me crazy, and then I decided to take apart the back of the dress, and re-measure. The problem is the stretch of the dress, it stretchs in all directions, you can be off for 0,5 cm, and I can see it, I hate it.

Another issue is my sway back, specially when the fabric is so stretchy in all directions

Roland Mouret Afyon Dress


My Roland Mouret version dress

 Nearly done
Back maniqui

The back of the dress was really nice on the maniqui, but not on me because of my sway back plus the stretch of the fabric,  so apart from the interfacing and fixing the length,

The back of the dress on me

I did have to reinforce the zipper with bias binding.  I normally buy Riri zippers, but this time I did try YKK zipper, I didn't like, I will keep using Riri zipper for my following projects.

Also the hem


Wednesday, 13 April 2016

Making a version of Roland Mouret Eugene Top


Long time!!! I have been VERY BUSY, believe me.!! Now I am just looking forward to some holidays (^.^)

I decided to show an approach in the making of RM Eugene Top. This Top has been sewn in so many different colors.

For this top you need a fabric that is medium weight and excellent for draping. The best of this Top is that you don't need zipper.

If you are able to get a serge machine, it will be great, if not you can decide how do you want to finish the edges of the top.


Fabric medium weight.
Sewing machine
Grosgrain ribbon

Weltless Technique for finishing the armholes. 

Here some pictures for showing details of RM Eugene Top


 Right side

Left Side

I will make a toile jersey fabric, maybe not the best fabric to make this top since jersey its quite stretchy.

First, we will cut a rectangle.  Side B will be the length, Lets say from The neck to hip, and L the width how much shall the back be covered up.

I am 85 cm in my breast, so L:  85 + 85/2 = 127,5

Normally From the waist to the hip there is around 20 cm.
The length will be B: 14 cm neck + 44 torso + 20/2 cm = 68 cm

With the help of a dress form, I wrap the whole Torso.
Match both ends of the fabric in the middle of the back and form a pythagore triangle. Sew 2cm on the top and 2cm, 10 cm above the low edges.
With the help of a ribbon I measure the opening of the armhole.
40cm length, divided in 2, 20cm. I will use 20 cm for the first armhole.
In the above picture, the opening is diagonal, the front end of the opening is just a bit higher than the back end of the opening.

 First armhole

We measure from the top part of the neck to the end of the should, approx 17cm. That will be our center point of the armhole. 10 cm to the left and 10 cm to the right for a opening of 20cm

For the second armhole lets mark the middle point, our second armhole will be rounded as you can see very clearly in the Left Side Picture, starting this article.

 Second Armhole
We moved the armhole from the middle point down.
Our second armhole
At the start of the shoulder, 7cm,  we will make 3 pleats.
3 front pleats, in your Right side.
Sew one ribbon in each side of the lower part back. Lets say 15 cm from the side edge and 15cm from the lower edge.

 Left Side
 Right Side

If you have any question, just ask (^.^) I hope you like.