Thursday, 25 January 2018

Let's make Roland Mouret 'Sweeper' Top

Hei Girls
Let's make RM Sweeper top, be prepared, I will be updating this entry with pictures explaining step by step this top.
This top do not have zipper but I will advise to installed one, because I found very strange that a top like this do not have a zipper. it must be hard to take it off. The length of the zipper it will depend on how the length of the back ended it up.
RM Sweeper top
RM Sweeper Top Front
RM Sweeper TOP Back

It helped me to draw this top on paper before starting to drape it on the mannequin. Because It was in the process of drawing when I have my eureka moment and I  managed to have an idea of how it was made.
Here everything is all about proportions. This top has two kind of darts, these darts depends on how big the top will be and how it will look on the body.

H= Will represent how long would you like the top to be
L= will represent the width of the top according to your size and specially bust size
Its not perfect rectangular (it shall be) but the main goal is that you get the idea how this is done.

We take one corner of the H side and pin it to the right side of the Mannequin.

Left side of the mannequin

We made the first dart, you decide how wide will be, here is more important the proportions.

The end of the dart will be pin together with the corner of the H side.

We make the second dart and pin it as the first one

we take the rest of the fabric back. Covering a bit  of the whole  back.

 We straight the fabric (right side)

We straight the fabric (left side) of the mannequin.

 The bottom of the top shall be straight up, for making a nice hem
A band of the same fabric shall sew in the top.

 A small dart is made in the band for being able to take it to back.

 A squared-off fabric is cut and place in the back. We placed one of the side together to right side

the top part of the squared-off fabric will be fold making the sides to meet each other.

We cut, so the sides of the top can meet together

Its here in this side where I will advise to sew a open separating zipper. Sew a nice 3 cm hem. and the top is done.

I hope this can help, if not, please just ask. (^.^)

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